Nut Slot, Endpin Jack Hole, Brushes, & Z-poxy

Monday, December 31st, 2012:

The first thing I did today was to cut the nut slot. As the nut will be sitting in the angled-back peghead, I needed to cut a block which had the required 8-degree back angle, so I would have a guide for a saw cut that would be perpendicular to the fingerboard surface. I clamped the guide to the peghead and used my Dozuki saw to cut through the bloodwood veneer. My nut slot is 3/16" wide.



After the saw cut was made, I used my micro-chisel to clean out the nut slot:


Next, I drilled a 15/32" hole into into the tail end of the guitar, for the pickup endpin jack I will be using. I first drilled a 5/16" hole, and then used Stew-Mac's endpin jack reamer to finish up the hole.


The last thing I did was to go to a few artist supply stores to look for the Da Vinci Cosmotop 5080 brush I had seen recommended on various forums, for use with the EM6000 waterbase finish I will be using.

The weather has been very cold lately, so I have decided to brush on the finish, instead of my usual spray finishing. I couldn't find any local stores that carried the Da Vinci brush, so I found these two brushes from a Michael's craft store in my area. One is an "Artist's Loft" brush, some sort of watercolor wash brush with a very soft, large. round synthetic brush; the other is a Cotman 999 wash brush. Both seem as if they will brush on the waterbase finish quite smoothly, with little or no (I hope) brush marks. I did a test brushing of the waterbase finish after I got home with these brushes, and it seems as if they might work.



Next up . . . doing the final sanding, grain-raising, and more sanding!!!

Tuesday, January 1st, 2013!!!

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!! It's now around 4:00 p.m., and I have just finished applying my first coat of Z-poxy to the top of my Weissenborn.

I spent a few hours this morning doing the final sanding of the entire guitar, using first 120-grit, then 220-grit sandpaper. I did a couple of grain-raisings and sanding again with the 220, for a nice, smooth finish.

Then I masked the areas where the fingerboard and bridge will be glued:




And then I applied a thin coat of Z-poxy, using a dulled razor blade (with the corners rounded off). So far, I have only applied it to the top. After I did that, I took a break and took Hannah out for a walk in the cold, brisk air. What a difference in the color, huh?

Well, I'm back from the walk now, and will apply the Z-poxy to the back and sides. After that, I will let it sit until tomorrow, when I will apply the second, and possibly third coats.


Wednesday, January 2nd, 2013:

After 2nd coat of Z-poxy (after lightly scuffing 1st coat with 320-grit sandpaper):





Thursday, January 3rd, 2013:

Just one photo today --- I have just applied the thinned (50/50 Z-poxy/alcohol mix) Z-poxy coat, wiped on with a paper towel, to the sides and back.

After I leveled (with 320-grit sandpaper) the second coat I had applied yesterday, I found that all the pores were filled. So, to even out the color, I wiped on this thinned-down coat. When it dries, I will wipe on a thinned coat to the top.

Then it will be ready for a couple of coats of shellac, and then on to brushing on the EM6000.







Return to HOME PAGE

  1. Finishing the Mold
  2. Top and Back Plates, Fingerboard and BridgeWood
  3. The Top: The Rosette
  4. Bracing: Days 1 & 2
  5. Bracing: Days 3 & 4
  6. Sides
  7. The Peghead
  8. Kerfing
  9. Side Braces, Fingerboard
  10. Completing the Box
  11. Preparing for Binding
  12. It's Binding Time!!!
  13. Continuing the Binding
  14. Making the Bridge
  15. Nut Slot, Endpin Jack Hole, Brushes & Z-poxy
  16. On to the Finish!!!
  17. Rubbing Out, Polishing, and Fingerboard
  18. Bridge, Pickup, and Set-up!!!
  19. It's Finished!!!