Friday, February 21st, 2014:
Whew!!!! I just spent about four hours thinking through the sequence and details of what I need to do next. Doing this bevel (while additionally doing a soundport and off-center rosette) means that I need to change my normal order of operations to put together this guitar. The first thing I did today was to re-watch the Kent Everett DVD; I took notes as I watched it. Then, I spent the next hour or so typing up these notes, rearranging steps, trying to come up with the best way to go about doing all this.
Chances are, as I go along, I'll find that I may have to make some changes (to account for things I may not have thought of today), but at least my mind is a little bit clearer about what I have to do. If I don't write things down, oftentimes I find I feel too scatterbrained and overwhelmed to work very well.
If you see anything here that doesn't look right, please let me know!!! I'd welcome any constructive comments or suggestions.
(RED means "Done")
TOP & BACK:
Joint & join top.
Mark back outline.
Mark brace locations on back.
Trim & brace back.
Mark top outline, centerline, and soundhole pivot location on top.
Draw out entire eccentric rosette plan on top
(using 2 pivot holes). DON'T FORGET PURFLING LINES!!!
Using drawing, cut out
eccentric rosette/purfling ring out of bloodwood.
Rout out channel for rosette/purfling (using 2 pivot holes).
Glue in rosette/purfling ring. (DO NOT CUT OUT SOUNDHOLE YET!)
top (first to get rosette just flush, then on other side to final thickness).
top brace locations & top outline.
top (LEAVE ¼" OUTSIDE LINE).
sides & put into mold with spreaders.
side ends at neck & tail.
BEVEL BLOCK 1:
bevel shape onto bass side lower bout. (2" in from waist to 4"-6" in from tail)
(3/4" center depth)
bevel line on belt sander & smooth out with drill press sanding drum.
sides back into mold w/spreaders.
MAKE NECK & TAIL BLOCKS:
for and drill holes (countersunk on inside with Forstner bit) for bolts.
neck & tail blocks to match curve of sides, and glue in blocks. When dry, drill neck bolt holes through sides.
BEVEL BLOCK 2:
MOVED TO STEP 54b: Install
the bloodwood/purfling (b/w/b .040") end wedge.
top edge in 25' radius dish, and back edge in 15' radius dish.
1" thick basswood block to fit into bevel area.
where it will meet kerfing, to width of kerfing.
inside line of block --- ¾" in middle, gradually down to kerfing width mark.
With bandsaw, cut outer curve of block (where it will meet
side), and then cut inner curve of block ¼" outside of the line drawn.
fitting the block outside curve to side, re-mark & cut the inner line.
depth of kerfing on end of block, and cut a couple of
inches in at an angle from that mark.
to inner line.
bevel block in place, and now mark along the side bevel cut (onto the outside
curve of block).
¼" in from that line (towards back of guitar) --- this will be the
¼" gluing surface to side).
to that line on the block. (DO NOT
TRIM INSIDE CORNER OF BLOCK YET!!!)
bevel block to side, lining up with the line that was traced along the side
dry, sand top again in 25' radius dish.
on kerfing (flush with edges) onto both top and back
38a. Make and glue on side braces.
38b. Mark for location of soundport.
a gluing caul for soundport area.
3 layers of veneer to inside of soundport area, using
dry, rout out soundport with Dremel.
BEVEL BLOCK 3:
inside corner of bevel block to 45 degree angle,
smoothing it into the kerfing. Final sand with 180-grit.
25' radius again into top.
top onto side set.
the inside bevel block curve onto top.
¼" from that line (towards the side) onto the top. (This will be the
gluing surface for the top/bevel block.)
the top on that line. KEEP THE
OFF-CUT (to be used later).
the top edge out on sander.
BRACE TOP, FIT & GLUE THE TOP AND BACK:
the top now. (REMEMBER TO ADJUST
THE BRACE SCALLOP LOCATION, FROM THE NEW TOP OUTLINE. ALSO REMEMBER THAT THE BRACE WILL BE
INLAYED ¼" INTO THE BEVEL BLOCK.)
49b. DON'T FORGET --- BEFORE CLOSING UP BOX, make clamping cauls for gluing on the fingerboard extension & for gluing on the bridge!!!
49c. Shellac the top (for protection).
49d. MAKE AND GLUE IN MY LABEL ON THE INSIDE OF BACK!!!!
49e. MAKE A GUITAR-SHAPED CLAMPING CAUL FOR GLUING ON TOP/BACK!!!
the top to the side set (rout out pockets into the bevel block & kerfing).
the back to the side set (rout out brace pockets into kerfing).
on the top and back.
52b. Trim the top & back overhang flush to the sides.
53. Cut out side portion at truss rod slot.
bindings (do a couple extra).
for binding & purfling: Rout purfling channels first, then binding channels. STOP SHORT OF BEVEL AREA & TRUSS ROD SLOT AREA.
the bloodwood/purfling (b/w/b .040") end wedge. (Remember to make it longer on both top & bottom, by the width of the b/w/b purfling strip AND to miter the ends of the purfling strips!!!)
up binding/purfling channels (especially the
bevel area of binding, sand the binding almost down to the bottom purfling line (to allow flex).
in binding/purflings. At bevel area, use push
BEVEL BLOCK 4 & VENEER:
in extra black purfling line along bevel area of top purfling. Then,
glue in the spruce off-cut.
dry, superglue along purfling.
dry, file the 45-degree FLAT bevel, all the way up to the purfling lines.
paper to find the shape of the bevel (creases will show it).
the veneer outside that creased line.
Apply Titebond to both the veneer and the bevel. LET IT DRY.
off any grit, etc., from both glued surfaces.. Sand entire surfaces lightly.
on the veneer. (MAKE SURE IT COVERS THE ENTIRE BEVEL AREA.)
it dry (preferably overnight).
at the purfling edges.
excess veneer with razor blade. (BE CAREFUL OF CHIPPING.)
it all so there are clean lines.
Making the neck will feel like a breeze, compared to all this!!!!