FILES: |
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| Diamond-coated, for rounding over frets after you have leveled them | |
| Home-made (epoxying a mill bastard file to a block of wood) | |
| Has a “safe” edge for shaping fret ends without damaging the fingerboard | |
| For slotting string slots in the nut | |
| For shaping the neck shaft | |
| I LOVE these for shaping necks!!! |
CUTTING / SAWING TOOLS: |
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| 1/4” to 1” sizes | |
| From LMI – makes it easier to get at glue squeeze-out | |
| For use with carving violin, mandolin, archtop plates | |
| For cleaning up nut slots, binding ledges, etc. | |
| For cutting inlays | |
| Curved and straight edges – I begin neck carving with the curved one. | |
| Indispensable tool for cutting tang ends for bound fingerboards | |
| For trimming fret ends flush to fingerboard | |
| For enlarging tuner and endpin holes | |
| For scalloping braces, carving plates | |
| From a ShopNotes article (before I got my Craftsman jointer) |
DREMEL ATTACHMENTS: |
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| Very handy --- you can make micro-adjustments for depth of cut | |
| Can cut soundholes of 3” diameter or above | |
| Primarily for routing out violin purfling slots | |
| Adjustable depth of cut | |
| What I used to use before I made the Williams binding router jig | |
| You can rout a saddle slot in a bridge either on or off the guitar. |
