- Joint the top and back plates, using sandpaper on a 4' level.
- Glue the plates --- tip: offset the plates, so the centerline doesn’t get lost.
- Thickness sand the plates to 3/32” (using my Performax 10-20).
- Draw the uke outline and bracing patterns on the plates.
- Rout out the soundhole purfling rings.
- Glue in abalone and BWB purflings.
- Next day, scrape and sand abalone ring.
- Rout out soundhole (2-1/2” diam.).
- Bandsaw out top and back outlines (1/4” outside line).
- Cut braces for top and back.
- Arch brace bottoms by sanding on radius dishes.
- Cut out soundhole "donut" patch (mahogany), bridge patch (koa).
- Glue soundhole patch and bridge patch.
- Cut notches into fan braces to fit over bridge patch; glue top braces and fan braces.
- Glue back braces and center reinforcement strip.
- Carve braces.
- Make label and glue onto back.
- Cut out tapered side pieces.
- Bend sides, using side bender and heat blanket.
- Put sides in mold. Trim sides to fit mold.
- Make neck and tail blocks.
- Drill holes (1/2” Forstner bit) in neck block.
- Sand neck and tail blocks to fit curve of sides.
- Glue neck block to sides (out of mold).
- Drill 5/16” hole in bolt holes in neck block, out through sides.
- Glue tail block to sides (out of mold).
- Glue on kerfing (triangular).
- Sand kerfing, using radius dishes.
- Fit back braces into kerfing; use Dremel to rout out kerfing pockets.
- Glue back onto sides, using go-bar deck.
- Trim back overhang, using tilted bandsaw table.
- Fit top braces into kerfing; use Dremel to rout out kerfing pockets.
- Glue top onto sides, using go-bar deck.
- Trim top overhang.
- Cut fret slots in fingerboard (macassar ebony), using Stew-Mac fret pull-saw and miter jig. Cut 18 slots.
- Taper fingerboard for 5/64” ebony binding.
- Install 5mm paua abalone fingerboard dots at 3,5,7,9,12 frets.
- Determine the necessary length of fingerboard; use Bulls-Eye shellac quart can to draw curve on end.
- Bend ebony binding for end of fingerboard; miter the ends.
- Miter the ends of two ebony binding pieces for fingerboard sides; make sure they all fit well.
- Glue the ebony bindings to the fingerboard with Titebond.
- Sand it down.
- Cut scarf joint on 2” neck blank, using scarf jig with tablesaw.
- Prepare 3/32” thick koa peghead veneer piece and 5/64” thick mahogany veneer (for back of peghead, to hide peghead ears).
- Thin peghead piece to 5/16” thick, using thickness sander.
- Glue peghead scarf piece to neck blank.
- Sand 15° angle onto koa peghead veneer.
- Thin bone nut to 3/16” thick.
- With bone nut pressed up against the peghead veneer, determine nut end of fingerboard. Mark that onto the neck blank.
- Mark centerline and 12th fret line onto neck board, to determine end of neck.
- Glue 2 heel blocks to neck board.
- Use miter gauge to cut heel end of neck.
- Drill 7/16” hole in heel for dowel, 15/32” in from end.
- Glue in dowel.
- Rout slot for .20” carbon fiber rod, 1/4” deep.14. Glue in carbon fiber rod.